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Get some card sleeves and card-stock. Write/print whatever you need to on the card-stock and cut it down to size. After you sleeve it they will all be shuffle-able and readable, just like normal cards. Admittedly this isn't good for much beyond prototype testing, but it's definitely fast and cheap. :D

When I shuffle I use a mixture of two techniques: riffle and stripping (as defined quite adequately in the Wikipedia article on shuffling). Riffle separates adjacent cards while stripping cycles cards from the top of the deck to the bottom. I use both because riffle alone will very slowly push cards in the bottom half of each cut down, but tends to leave ...

Sounds a lot like Mao (which I was introduced to as Chairmen). It's a card-shedding game (i.e. like Uno) with secret rules that can vary by playing group. As the game goes on, more rules are added but not directly explained. The game typically goes on until everyone gives up. EDIT: Some sample starting rules might include these ones that are fairly common ...

It's a common convention wherever cards are involved; the game doesn't have to be a traditional card game played with a poker or bridge deck. I think the convention evolved from the trick-taking family, especially Bridge, and the manners and social conventions thereof. Poker, and its emphasis on ensuring a clean deal, is another good possibility for the ...

For traditional card games the proper terms as defined in both Hoyle and Official Rules of Card Games are Discard pile Stock Drawing is the act of receiving cards from the stock. You can also see these terms used by Wikipedia while defining the rules for various games such as: Canasta Gin Rummy These are both Rummy-style games. One of the defining ...

I have two different things I do for prototype cards. The first is just to use scraps of paper and sleeves, as outlined in the answer above (which I upvoted) - it's cheap, easy to swap in cards and stops you from over-investing time into half-baked ideas. After I have confidence in a design enough to bring it to outside play groups, I usually use stickers ...

You could use common card protectors like people use to protect cards from trading cards games (Magic, etc). What your stuff in there (printed cardboard, paper-glued-on-other-cards,...) then becomes pretty much irrelevant. If not, what about photo printing services? Look for ones making postcards, you can probably easily fit 4 cards on a potcards and they ...

While it doesn't directly answer your question of where to get reusable playing cards, I have helped friends play-test card games before, and we have always just grabbed a handful of junk Magic common cards (because who doesn't have thousands of those lying around?), put them all into sleeves, and then slipped pieces of paper between the face of the card and ...

Artscow.com is the site I always hear about. I've never used it but it's constantly mentioned on boardgamegeek.com as the place to go for printing custom cards. See: http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/card/multi-purpose-cards-rectangle-394

Honestly I'm just guessing here, but could they be Irish? Roughly an hour of Googling eventually brought me to these pages, which lists the names of the face cards in Irish Gaelic as follows: King: [R]í Queen: [B]hanríon Jack: Laoch (also [C]uireata)

The article on Shuffling at the Wikipedia discusses the famous paper by Persi Diaconis and Dave Bayer which shows that a 52 card deck of cards doesn't become random until the fifth shuffle, and requires seven shuffles to become "truly" random. Your question "Are there any other methods of cuttings of the deck or shuffle types that create a more random ...

I was poking around the other day looking for the same answer. Plaincards.com sells software to design your own cards and blank cards to print your designs on. Seems pretty cool, but it looks like you're limited to standard playing card sizes (i.e. no tiny Arkham cards). Their complete product line appears here. I'm not sure what size cards Bohnanza uses. ...

I've found that a slightly damp washcloth with a little bit of plain old bar soap on it works just fine -- don't use those goofy hand soaps with the beads or anything fancy in them. Lightly rub the cloth on the card, dry it off with another washcloth, and let it sit for a few hours. You definitely want to try this on one card first to make sure that ...

As commenters have pointed out, the copying that you are describing is illegal in most countries. This isn't legal advice (and it depends on where you're located), but a quick Google search about copying and protecting card games seems to suggest that you probably can make a copy if you don't directly copy the artwork or wording used in the original game. ...

Copyright concerns aside, I can help with the printing. I recently made a 100-card game (actually a Fluxx variant) like so: I printed out the cards in sheets of nine cards (onto standard A4 paper), then chopped them out with scissors. This might take a while if you've got too many, but 80 should be OK. To make them more sturdy, I bought 100 penny-sleeves ...

Most card sleeves are made with Polypropylene (Type 5) which is unlikely to contain BPA. Plastic Containers Made with BPA Used in Food Preparation. Plastic containers have recycle codes on the bottom. Ingeneral,plastics that are marked with recycle codes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are very unlikely to contain BPA. Some, but not all, plastics that are marked ...

To answer the question, there are a lot of plastics that are suitable for use as card sleeves. None of them use Bisphenol-A as a plasticizer; that particular chemical is used primarily to make polycarbonates, which while optically clear are generally too stiff for use as flexible sheets or films (though they're great for applications requiring high impact ...

Although not a particularly cheap solution, you could use a service like Artscow to print off this redesign of Bohnanza: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/239278/bohnanza-redesign-for-the-uppish-and-the-posh

With Ticket to ride, 3-5 riffle shuffles should be sufficient to randomize the deck sufficiently for play. As long as the runs of matched cards aren't 5-6 cards long, it's not a big issue. I'll note that japanese style block shuffling is inadequate for TTR until about the 9th or time through the deck, which I discovered due to using sleeved cards in ...

I have just built a prototype for a card game. Since I was not using any art, I ordered the printing of the cards on those small business cards. They are thick and sturdy enough to last a long while and easy to shuffle too. The most of the card rules are common, so, not a lot of text needed to be on the cards them selves.

The most popular version in the English speaking world is the Rider-Waite Tarot cards. These were published in the early 20th century. This site has The Pictorial Key to the Tarot that contains B/W images of the Tarot cards (clicking those opens fair quality scans in color). The book and the images predate U.S. copyright laws. These images here are the ...

Not touching your cards until the dealer has finished dealing is generally considered good etiquette, or "good table manners". I.e. picking your cards up before the dealer has finished is rude, rather than cheating. Etiquette depends on social norms, so it can vary between different countries, different age groups, different social groups, etc. For example, ...

With every card game I play I do a mix of Riffle, Stripping, and Mongean-Stripping Combo. I generally intermix these in a random order with a random number of times, usually at least 3. I've found that mixing shuffling techniques, especially in a random order, will result in a fairly nice card distribution and randomization.

You can also get playing-card sized sheets for inkjet printers. This is the first one I turned up in a Google search - do some Google work and you can probably find more. Printing on your own printer on these is probably the quickest way to get something that's actually playing card sized. If you can live with off sizes, then go to your local office store ...

It looks like I misspelt the name of the game. It's actually Belut or Belote I've found a set of rules here: http://www.pagat.com/jass/belote.html The only difference in rules to what I'm used to that I can see from a glance is that 4 Aces is worth 400 points.

You can find here : http://en.beloteenligne.com/ some additionnal information. The Belote rules seems so easy, but there were so much strategy going on. In France, they prefer a lot Belote to Poker. This game is known because in every family (and at school) they play belote on Sunday after the meal.

This combines a little bit of @gbianchi's and @Konerak's: we've always played that if you can exactly match the card on top of the pile (both color and value), you can play out of turn, and play continues as if it had been your turn. If you have two identical cards in your hand, you can play them both at once. When penalty cards are played this way, they ...

Another option is to get a razor blade or hobby knife, and carefully scrape the grime off. You want to use a very light touch here to avoid scratching the card. Basically put the whole of the blade in contact w/ the card, just slightly off of vertical, and lightly scrape. Regardless of what method you use, if the cards are used frequently prevention is the ...

Adam did an awesome job of answering, so I won't repeat anything he mentioned there, but there's 2 things I want to add. I like mixing regular strip shuffles with the variant where you pick up most of the deck like normal, but instead of depositing cards with a chopping motion on one side of the cards only, alternate the side you put the cards on by ...

I use blank name cards. I get them from printers or stationers in boxes of 100 for about $1. They're smaller than regular playing cards, and not as durable, but you can also get them in perforated sheets of ten (10) that will go through your printer. You might find other sizes of perforated cards as well.